The Kitty Packard Pictorial


Poetry in Motion: Jane Campion’s Bright Star
bright-star

Poetry in the key of Time.

Normally, I am not exactly what you would call a fan of Jane Campion’s films.

But a few weeks ago, I went to the theater and gave her latest film, Bright Star, a chance. Mostly because Kenneth Turan, the Los Angeles Times’ resident film critic, gave it a simply glowing review … and Turan is rather known for not giving glowing reviews.

I went in with my nose firmly placed in the air, ready to massacre what I was certain would be a self-important, purposefully ‘arty’ picture. And, suddenly, about an hour into it, I realized that I was crying … for no apparent reason at all. It was simply a matter of an unexpected, rushing wave of emotion sweeping over me, and I was caught in its riptide, helpless to resist. The same sort of feeling one gets when reading a challenging poem: the initial distrust, and then, bang, the thrust of emotion that leaves you thoroughly winded … and utterly in love. Rather like a Keats poem, to be honest.

Which is why Bright Star, the delicately beautiful film about the famous love affair between the young John Keats and Fanny Brawne starring the exquisite Abbie Cornish and Ben Whishaw, is so powerfully sensitive and entirely effective. It feels like a poem … not like someone pushing poetry down your throat which, I’m sure you’ll agree, makes all the difference in the world.

Rapturous in its realism, Bright Star feels and breathes and seethes with life and love and beauty. The early 19th century has never been so extraordinarily organic. Even though just a spectator in 2-D, the film pops with color, and vibrancy—we feel the flush of wind on Fanny’s fabric, the fragility of Keat’s coat collar, the quiet sunlight over a field of lavender, the warm breath of a tentative kiss… it is something rarely achieved on screen with such mastery, and my previous issues with Ms. Campions’ pretension have been duly sated.

The film itself is not likely to make a dent in the coming awards season, such is the lot of films of its beauty and weight, but if there’s one thing sure to seduce Academy voters it must surely be the exquisitely artful use of costume. The fabric of Miss Fanny Brawne’s clothing is as much a part of the film’s tapestry as Fanny herself … below are a few of what I consider to be the highlights ….

Fanny in throes of love.

A portrait in Lavender.

BrightStar4

Fanny fast at work on a new design ...

... and the r

...and the beautiful result.

BrightStar3

And another of Fanny's fine bespoke creations.

BrightStar6

The Two Lovers.



Irving Penn (1917-2009)
October 8, 2009, 6:03 pm
Filed under: art, fashion, photography

One of the 20th century’s truly great artists, Irving Penn, died yesterday. He was 92. His celebrity portraits are the stuff of legend, his work for Vogue reinvented fashion photography and through his lens the ordinary nothings of life became art.

But don’t take my word for it. The following shots speak for themselves:

Penn1

Penn2

Penn3

Pablo Picasso

Pablo Picasso

Truman Capote

Truman Capote

April 1950 Cover, Vogue

April 1950 Cover, Vogue

Two moroccan women

Two moroccan women

Penn8

penn9

Penn’s work is currently the subject of a Getty exhibit called Small Trades, which runs until January 10.  If you live in the Southern California area, you owe yourself a visit.



Brian Duffy and the Swinging ’60s

London’s Chris Beetles Gallery is one of my favorite art galleries and their exhibitions are always something truly spectacular. From October 12 through November 7, they are presenting a special presentation of Brian Duffy prints—Duffy being the Swinging Sixties photographer iconic fashion shoots and portraits of pop culture icons came to embody the energy and vitality of this explosively creative era.

Duffy (in)famously set fire to all of his original negatives back in 1979, but not all were destroyed and the Chris Beetles gallery is displaying the surviving images: the result of what they describe as “two years of painstaking archiving.” If you, like me, can’t make the trip across the pond to pay a visit, here’s a look at these dynamic prints, featuring everyone from John Lennon to California’s future Governator:

Jean Shrimpton

Jean Shrimpton, early 1960s

Michael Caine, 1964

Michael Caine, 1964

John Lennon, 1965

John Lennon, 1965

Sammy Davis Jr. & May Britt, 1960

Sammy Davis Jr. & May Britt, 1960

Sidney Poitier, 1965

Sidney Poitier, 1965

"Queen" Magazine, 1965

"Queen" Magazine, 1965

Vogue Magazine, 1964

Vogue Magazine, 1964

Vogue Magazine, 1964

Vogue Magazine, 1964



Marty Scorsese & the Great LACMA Crusade
Marty

Marty

I heart Marty Scorsese.

And when he goes and does things like this, well, it just sends me all aflutter.

First, a bit of background.

For nearly four decades, the film program at the Los Angeles Country Museum of Art has been a primary venue for film lovers to gather for some of the most engaging retrospectives in LA.

But LACMA director Michael Govan has decided to pull the film program, citing declining audiences and $1 million in losses over the past decade. Govan claims that the move will allow them to “pause for re-thinking.” But you, me, Marty and just about everyone else who gives a damn about film history can see through that one like an episode of Gray’s Anatomy.
Over the past two weeks, a slew of damning op-eds have appeared from some of the most powerfully persuasive pens in the industry—Richard Schickel and Kenneth Turan to name the few.

Mr. Schickel states “It is the duty of museums to place before us the accumulated works of the ages, movies definitely included — old and new; obscure and well known; good, bad and absurd — in order to keep us in touch with the rich and ever-informative history of an ever-evolving, yes, I’ll say it, art form …The fact that good movies arise out of a corrupt commercial system makes it more, not less, worthy of our attention. How in the world does a “Chinatown” arise out of that unpromising soil?

And now, a letter to Mr. Govan from that preeminent film crusader, Martin Scorsese.

“I am deeply disturbed by the recent decision to suspend the majority of film screenings at LACMA. For those of us who love cinema and believe in its value as an art form, this news hits hard.

We all know that the film industry, like many other institutions and industries, has to be radically rebuilt for the future. This is now apparent to everyone. But in the midst of all this change, the value and power of cinema’s past will only increase, and the need to show films as they were intended to be shown will become that much more pressing. So I find it profoundly disheartening to know that a vital outlet for the exhibition of what was once known as “repertory cinema” has been cut off in L.A. of all places, the center of film production and the land of the movie-making itself. My personal connection to LACMA stretches back almost 40 years to when I lived in L.A.during the ’70s and regularly attended their vibrant film series, programmed by the legendary Ron Haver. It was actually at LACMA, during a 20th Century Fox retrospective, that I first became aware of the issues of color film fading and the urgent need for film preservation. Ian Birnie, a programmer of immaculate taste and knowledge, has continued in the tradition of Ron Haver, who was so well-versed in cinema past and present. I do not understand why this approach to programming needs to be re-thought. I am puzzled by the notion of pegging future film programming to “artist-created films,” as stated in the letter announcing this shift – to do this would be tantamount to downgrading the worth of cinema. Aren’t the best films made by artists in the first place?

Without places like LACMA and other museums, archives, and festivals where people can still see a wide variety of films projected on screen with an audience, what do we lose? We lose what makes the movies so powerful and such a pervasive cultural influence. If this is not valued in Hollywood, what does that say about the future of the art form? Aren’t museums serving a cultural purpose beyond appealing to the largest possible audience? I know that my life and work have been enriched by places like LACMA and MoMA whose public screening programs enabled me to see films that would never have appeared at my local movie theater, and that lose a considerable amount of their power and beauty on smaller screens.

I believe that LACMA is taking an unfortunate course of action. I support the petition that is still circulating, with well over a thousand names at this point, many of them prominent. It comes as no surprise to me that the public is rallying. People from all over the world are speaking out, because they see this action – correctly, I think – as a serious rebuke to film within the context of the art world. The film department is often held at arms’ length at LACMA and other institutions, separate from the fine arts, and this simply should not be. Film departments should be accorded the same respect, and the same amount of financial leeway, as any other department of fine arts. To do otherwise is a disservice to cinema, and to the public as well.

I hope that LACMA will reverse this unfortunate decision.

–Martin Scorsese
New York, N.Y.

I hope that Mr. Govan reads Marty’s letter without the sort of culturecrat piety that seems have crippled his powers of reason on this particular decision.



Colorized Vintage Photos by Claroscureaux

Right, so like most things in life, I am probably the last person in the blogosphere to know about this fella. Many thanks to Forget the Talkies for bringing it to my attention!

Claroscureaux colorizes vintage Hollywood photographs.

Normally the word “colorize” makes my skin crawl and I get a sudden urge  for sudden death. But Claroscureaux’s work is beautiful– if I might rhapsodize, I daresay his work is exquisite. Some are spine-tingling in their realism, some have an Earl Christy-ish painterly quality, but all are obvious works of tireless, tedious attention to detail.

He has a store online to fulfill all of your every day classic cinema needs– coffee mugs, et all– and the prints are priced very reasonably.

Here are some of my favorites:

Myrna Loy - © Claroscureaux

Myrna Loy - © Claroscureaux

Hedy Lamarr - © Claroscureaux

Hedy Lamarr - © Claroscureaux

Veronica Lake - © Claroscureaux (this is quite possibly my favorite photo of the year)

Veronica Lake - © Claroscureaux (this is quite possibly my favorite photo of the year)

Bette Davis - © Claroscureaux

Bette Davis - © Claroscureaux

Valentino - © Claroscureaux (smolder alert, ladies!)

Valentino - © Claroscureaux (smolder alert, ladies!)

Buster Keaton - © Claroscureaux

Buster Keaton - © Claroscureaux

Gloria Swanson - © Claroscureaux

Gloria Swanson - © Claroscureaux

Alice White - © Claroscureaux

Alice White - © Claroscureaux



The Kitty Packard Pictorial of the Month: Barbara Stanwyck

barbarastanwyck1ac0Stany. Beautiful, ballsy, brainy and just plain brilliant, Barbara Stanwyck was the ultimate actor’s actor. Before there was such a thing as “method” acting, Stanwyck had already perfected the art of the lifelike performance. From Night Nurse to Double Indemnity, there is never a moment when Stany doesn’t own each and every frame of film she occupies. She was widely regarded as Hollywood’s consummate professional, a hard-working nose-to-the-grind career woman who, at the same time, shied away from words like ‘career’: “Career is too pompous a word,” Stanwyck once said. “It was a job, and I have always felt privileged to be paid for what I love doing.”

For Brooklyn born Ruby Stevens, work was always a foremost part of her life. She spent most of her childhood (or lack thereof) in foster homes after losing her mother to a tragic accident after which she was subsequently abandoned by her father, which forced her to start working for herself at the age of 13. These turbulent formative years are almost certainly what equipped Stanwyck for a life spent exploring the deeply complex nature of human behavior. She entered the chorus at 15 and at 19 she was christened Barbara Stanwyck by the producer of a Broadway play who not only cast her but also rewrote her part to take advantage of her considerable talent.

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara_07Stanwyck, Barbara_01

Stany’s rise to film stardom was not a case of being just a pretty face—she had unquestionable talent as an actress. And while Stanwyck was a beautiful woman with an undeniable sensual presence, she was not the conventional Hollywood beauty. It was therefore her talent that caught the eye of a film producer and, with fellow Broadway actor and husband Frank Fay, brought her to Hollywood.

And while the marriage soon failed, her career did not. She signed on with Columbia after coming to national attention with Frank Capra’s, and with films like Ten Cents a Dance, Stanwyck began to solidly establish herself as an actress to be reckoned with.

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara_06

Stanwyck’s films during the early-mid thirties often feature her as tough-skinned and even a bit tawdry working dames—roles that could easily be clichéd by lesser actresses in films that often went way over the top, but Stanwyck infuses biting emotion and complicated vulnerability that makes her screen presence in these films nothing short of magnetic. So even if we don’t believe the plot for even one New York minute, we believe Barbara right down to the bone. (The Forbidden Hollywood Collection features a few of these sassy pre-codes, particularly Baby Face, Night Nurse and The Purchase Price.)

Despite her tough-talking roles, she was already demonstrating an impressive emotional range, taking on the role of a leftist college student in Red Salute, Annie Oakley in the titular role, and an American missionary in The Bitter Tea of General YenYen being an example of how early 30sHollywood was both riddled with unfortunate stereotype, while still audacious enough to flirt with a theme that borders on interracial love—two years before Mr. Hayes and his army of puritanical hypocrites over at the MPAA expressly banned such references from film.

Stanwyck, Barbara_02

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara_02

By the mid thirties, Stanwyck was one of the most popular leading actresses in Hollywood. In 1937, Stany garnered her first Oscar nomination for her turn as Stella Dallas—King Vidor’s powerful weeper in which she plays a common-as-the-cold mother whose determination to give her daughter the best life possible moves her to make the ultimate sacrifice. She lost to Luise Rainer for The Good Earth. Shockingly, Stanwyck would never win a competitive Oscar despite being nominated 4 times. She would instead receive the Academy’s ‘we made an ass of ourselves please forgive us’ honorary award 40 years later.

stelladallas

The roles she was being offered simply got better and throughout the late thirties and forties Stanwyck starred in a slew of solid, unforgettable roles in what are now timeless films. From screwball (The Lady Eve, my personal Stany film) to noir (the iconic Double Indemnity) to social statements (Meet John Doe) and back again (Ball of Fire), Stanwyck’s emotional range was rivaled by few actors—male or female. As always, she brought her own searing emotion to each role, reaching deep into her soul and making even the simplest words take on a world of meaning. This ability is beautifully captured in Preston Sturges’ marvelous The Lady Eve when card shark Jean Harrington, whose plan was to bamboozle hapless millionaire Henry Fonda, tells him: “You see Hopsi, you don’t know very much about girls. The best ones aren’t as good as you think they are and the bad ones aren’t as bad. Not nearly as bad. “ The camera is close on her as she says the last words … and we know exactly how much she loves him.

Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara (Ball of Fire)_06Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara (Lady Eve, The)_03Annex - Cooper, Gary (Meet John Doe)_02Annex - Stanwyck, Barbara (Double Indemnity)_02

And then there was Robert. Taylor, that is. The two were paired in MGM’s very forgettable 1936 melodrama His Brother’s Life (Stanwyck by then had a non-exclusive contract with RKO), and while their romance was genuine, it was also partly the work of studio publicity. They started living together and three years later, they were married. Stanwyck was thoroughly taken with the handsome young leading man and, when asked about marrying a man 4 years her junior, Stany fired back with sparkling wit: “the boy’s got a lot to learn, and I’ve got a lot to teach.”

hisbrotherswife

But it is little secret however that Taylor, whose affection for Barbara was less than hers for him, engaged in several extramarital affairs with some of the most beautiful women in Hollywood—and the world—including Ava Gardner and Lana Turner. The marriage stumbled along through the 40s before she finally filed for divorce in 1950.

Stany never married again.

Annex - Corey, Wendell (File on Thelma Jordon, The)_02

Once again, it was work that kept Stanwyck going with a string of low budget Westerns (notably 1955’s The Cattle Queen of Montana) and her own television program, The Barbara Stanwyck Show, for which she won an Emmy in 1960. She never stopped working, it seems, and even got an Emmy from a role in 1983’s classic miniseries The Thorn Birds. At the 50th Academy Awards in 1978, she was reunited with her old friend William Holden when the two appeared to present the award for best sound. (Fittingly, Holden noted, as the show was held on the 50th anniversary of the year of the talking picture.)

Annex - Holden, William (Golden Boy)_02

But Holden did something unexpected and first prefaced with this heartfelt thank you to Barbara that moved her to tears:

“Before Barbara and I present the next award, I’d like to say something. 39 years ago this month, we were working on a film together called Golden Boy. It wasn’t going well because I was going to be replaced. But due to this lovely human being, and her understanding and her professional integrity and her encouragement and above all her generosity— I am here tonight.”

“Oh Bill,” she replied and buried herself into his embrace.

Four years later, the Academy would bestow Stanwyck with an honorary Academy award for “superlative creativity and unique contribution to the art of screen acting.”

Since Stanwyck’s passing on January 20, 1990, those words have only strengthened in their weight.Because Barbara Stanwyck not only ‘contributed’ to the art of screen acting, she defined what it meant to be an actor.

Previously featured on the Kitty Packard Pictorial of the Month:: Erroll Flynn and Jean Harlow.



The Last Ziegfield Girl.

The the thoroughly fabulous Old Hollywood Glamour Blog has posted a delightful and inspiring post about the last remaining Ziegfiield girl– at 105, Doris Eaton is the final remnant of an all but forgotten universe and the New York Times has captured her vivacious centarian tenacity in a beautiful interview.

Read it. Now.



Jack Cardiff, Master of Cinematography, Dies at 94

Jack Cardiff, legendary British cinematographer, passed away today at the age of 94.

His painterly eye brought color film into its own, expressing human depth and emotion and passion through his radiant, imaginative swirl of a palette. Martin Scorsese once said that Cardiff is “synonymous with Technicolor,” and I think it can be rightly said that, when it comes to color cinematography, he wrote the book.

Cardiff’s prolific career began back in the silent days when he appeared as an actor through the 1920s—not surprising as his parents were of the English music hall and his childhood was mostly spent traveling from theatre to theatre. During his youth, Cardiff was exposed to painting and was fascinated by the use of paint and color and texture. Perhaps this is why, by the end of the 20s, Cardiff had wandered from acting and plunged full speed ahead into movie production. By 18 he was an assistant at British International Pictures and by the 30s, he was a respected camera operator at Denham Studios. The progression from clapper boy to production runner to camera operator to cinematographer was quick: by 1935, Cardiff had shot Britain’s first Technicolor film, Wings of the Morning and, after doing 2nd unit work for an Archers production, the legendary Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger put him on board for their ambitious 1947 feature Black Narcissus. The Himalayan drama was shot entirely at London’s Pinewood studios and earned Cardif an Academy Award. Cinematographer Herb Lightman is quoted as saying that Cardiff’s work on Narcissus demonstrated “hitherto unrealised possibilities for the kinetic use of colour on the screen.” 1948’s The Red Shoes was his final Archers project, and it remains a cinematic benchmark for sheer artistic creativity. (Interestingly enough, Cardiff did not receive the Oscar for Red Shoes, arousing suspicion of the Academy’s reluctance to give the honor to a foreigner two years in a row.) Cardiff’s work with the Archers was pioneering in its use of colour and his input was a large part of what made their success internationally and differentiated them from the far less flamboyant British film industry of the time. “I was the sort of person to suggest a lot of crazy ideas, “ Michael Powell once said, “and Jack took them seriously.”

Then there were the legends. The African Queen, the Prince and the Showgirl and The Barefoot Contessa had Cardiff lighting the likes of Bogart, Monroe and Gardner. Marilyn Monroe and Cardiff became good friends on the set of Showgirl, (he was a confidant of Monroe’s amidst the notorious battles between her and director co-star Laurence Olivier), and she once gave him a signed picture of herself, inscribed with the words “Dear Jack, if only I could be the way you have created me.” His leading ladies often posed for him for professional portraits, some of which have even been exhibited.

The New York Times wrote reverently of Cardiff’s legend back in 2002 when he received his honorary Oscar, calling him “Cinema’s Vermeer.” “The most interesting lesson in painting is clean-looking light and dramatic emphasis,” Cardiff said in the article, “whether it stands out in a countryside or in a bowl of fruit. Economy and simplicity – that was Caravaggio. Drama and organization – that was Turner. This is what I think about when lighting a scene.”**

Thankfully, his images will live on as long as the masters whom he championed so well.

**Special Thank you to the Powell and Pressburger Pages for their exhaustive sources!

Here’s a look back at some of the man’s most important work:

Black Narcissus, 1947

Black Narcissus, 1947

Debroah Kerr and Jean Simmons in Black Narcissus

Debroah Kerr and Jean Simmons in Black Narcissus

The Red Shoes, 1948

The Red Shoes, 1948

Moira Shearer & Anton Walbrook

Moira Shearer & Anton Walbrook

Moira Shearer, The Red Shoes

Moira Shearer, The Red Shoes

Ingrid Bergman in Under Capricorn, 1949

Ingrid Bergman in Under Capricorn, 1949

Katharine Hepburn & Humphrey Bogart in The African Queen, 1951

Katharine Hepburn & Humphrey Bogart in The African Queen, 1951

Katharine Hepburn, in The African Queen

Katharine Hepburn, in The African Queen

Ava Gardner in Pandora and the Flying Dutchman, 1951

Ava Gardner in Pandora and the Flying Dutchman, 1951

Ava Gardner, in The Barefoot Contess 1954

Ava Gardner, in The Barefoot Contessa 1954

Sophia Loren in Legend of the Lost, 1957

Sophia Loren in Legend of the Lost, 1957

Marilyn Monroe in The Princess and the Showgirl, 1957

Marilyn Monroe in The Princess and the Showgirl, 1957

Marilyn Monroe & Laurence Olivier in The Princess and the Showgirl

Marilyn Monroe & Laurence Olivier in The Princess and the Showgirl



Cecil Beaton Exhibition Hits Londontown

As something of a cantankerous twitterer, I have as of today softened somewhat in my outright cynicism towards the juggernaut.  Thanks to Stephen Fry’s twitter page (yes, I’m a voracious snoop), I am thrilled to learn that the Chris Beetles Gallery in London is hosting an exhibition of photographs taken by the legendary photographer, artist, writer, designer and all around pop culture icon, Cecil Beaton.  This exclusive collection of Beaton’s prints is certainly the most extensive such exhibition to date. For those of us unable to attend thanks to rather formidable masses of land and ocean, there is a special 92 page illustrated catalogue of the exhibition available for purchase directly from the gallery. On a personal note, this exhibition ends the day that I land in London for a holiday and I have every intention of braving the jet lag in order to get an up-close-and-personal look at some of Beaton’s most jaw-dropping work:

Sylvia Sidney

Sylvia Sidney

Gwili Andre

Gwili Andre

Julie Andrews

Julie Andrews



Art from the Golden Age of Movie Magazines

We at the Pictorial love Earl Christy. And Rolf Armstrong. And McClelland Barclay. And R Wilson Hammell. And Charles Edward Chambers. And all of the other American artists from the early 20th century that made up advertising’s great, golden age of Illustration. Not only because of what they did for  women’s journals and literary magazines but, of course, for the exquisite works of art created for American movie magazines. Photoplay, Modern Screen, Picturegoer, Screenland et al. Working largely from celebrity photographs, and in mediums such as oil and pastel, their work was firstly functional and not always … shall we say … artistic (hey, they had a hell of a workload, OK?) But when they were able to push the creative envelope, oh mama! The results were downright breathtaking.

According to the superlative website Grapefruit Moon, “The printing industry with its technological advancements and the American Industrial Revolution made for a multicolor offset printing process that was fast, affordable, and flat-out glorious in print. Cover artists were much in demand, earned lavish salaries and often became household names and stars in their own right.” Of course the likes of Norman Rockwell are venerated these days for their work, but today, for no reason at all, the Pictorial felt obliged to tip its hat to the illustrators of the great American movie magazines of yesteryear.

Below is a culled retrospective of some of our favorite eye-popping, sensational, drool-worthy illustrations of that explosively creative era.

* * *

Constance Bennett, by Earl Christy

Constance Bennett, by Earl Christy

Norma Shearer, by Marland Stone

Norma Shearer, by Marland Stone

Anna Q Nilsson, by Rolf Armstrong

Anna Q Nilsson, by Rolf Armstrong

Ann Sheridan, by Earl Christy

Ann Sheridan, by Earl Christy

Bette Davis, by John Rolston Clarke

Bette Davis, by John Rolston Clarke

Claudette Colbert, unknown artist

Claudette Colbert, unknown artist

Joan Crawford, Wilson Hammell

Joan Crawford, Wilson Hammell

Katharine Hepburn, unknown artist

Katharine Hepburn, unknown artist

Carole Lombard & Fred MacMurray, by Earl Christy

Carole Lombard & Fred MacMurray, by Earl Christy

Martha Mansfield, by Rolf Armstrong

Martha Mansfield, by Rolf Armstrong

Mary Astor, by Earl Christy

Mary Astor, by Earl Christy

Myrna Loy & William Powell, colorized studio photo

Myrna Loy & William Powell, colorized studio photo

Norma Talmadge, by Earl Christy

Norma Talmadge, by Earl Christy