Filed under: art, cinema, fashion, film | Tags: 19th century, Abbie Cornish, Ben Whishaw, Bright Star, Fanny Brawne, Jane Campion, John Keats
Poetry in the key of Time.
Normally, I am not exactly what you would call a fan of Jane Campion’s films.
But a few weeks ago, I went to the theater and gave her latest film, Bright Star, a chance. Mostly because Kenneth Turan, the Los Angeles Times’ resident film critic, gave it a simply glowing review … and Turan is rather known for not giving glowing reviews.
I went in with my nose firmly placed in the air, ready to massacre what I was certain would be a self-important, purposefully ‘arty’ picture. And, suddenly, about an hour into it, I realized that I was crying … for no apparent reason at all. It was simply a matter of an unexpected, rushing wave of emotion sweeping over me, and I was caught in its riptide, helpless to resist. The same sort of feeling one gets when reading a challenging poem: the initial distrust, and then, bang, the thrust of emotion that leaves you thoroughly winded … and utterly in love. Rather like a Keats poem, to be honest.
Which is why Bright Star, the delicately beautiful film about the famous love affair between the young John Keats and Fanny Brawne starring the exquisite Abbie Cornish and Ben Whishaw, is so powerfully sensitive and entirely effective. It feels like a poem … not like someone pushing poetry down your throat which, I’m sure you’ll agree, makes all the difference in the world.
Rapturous in its realism, Bright Star feels and breathes and seethes with life and love and beauty. The early 19th century has never been so extraordinarily organic. Even though just a spectator in 2-D, the film pops with color, and vibrancy—we feel the flush of wind on Fanny’s fabric, the fragility of Keat’s coat collar, the quiet sunlight over a field of lavender, the warm breath of a tentative kiss… it is something rarely achieved on screen with such mastery, and my previous issues with Ms. Campions’ pretension have been duly sated.
The film itself is not likely to make a dent in the coming awards season, such is the lot of films of its beauty and weight, but if there’s one thing sure to seduce Academy voters it must surely be the exquisitely artful use of costume. The fabric of Miss Fanny Brawne’s clothing is as much a part of the film’s tapestry as Fanny herself … below are a few of what I consider to be the highlights ….
Fanny fast at work on a new design ...
...and the beautiful result.
And another of Fanny's fine bespoke creations.
The Two Lovers.
Today’s Financial Times’ How to Spend It has a, shall we call it, interesting homage to 40s fashion. I am not entirely sure how I feel about stylist Damian Foxe’s particular approach … but his muted watercolor palette is quiet and soft enough to evoke a romantic Brief Encounter-esque dream of the 40s.
Here are some highlights from the Yuval Hen’s photo shoot.
Mikado, Dolce & Gabbana, Vintage Pilot
Stella McCartney, Phillip Tracey, Viktor & Rolf
Giorgio Armani, Phillip Tracy, Lanvin
Jean Paul Gaultier, Phillip Tracey, IWC
Lanvin
One of the 20th century’s truly great artists, Irving Penn, died yesterday. He was 92. His celebrity portraits are the stuff of legend, his work for Vogue reinvented fashion photography and through his lens the ordinary nothings of life became art.
But don’t take my word for it. The following shots speak for themselves:
Pablo Picasso
Truman Capote
April 1950 Cover, Vogue
Two moroccan women
Penn’s work is currently the subject of a Getty exhibit called Small Trades, which runs until January 10. If you live in the Southern California area, you owe yourself a visit.
Filed under: art, arts, culture, fashion, photography | Tags: Arnold Schwarzenegger, Brian Duffy, Chris Beetles Gallery, Jean Shrimpton, john lennon, London, May Britt, Michael Caine, Sammy Davis Jr., Sidney Poitier, Swingin' 60s
London’s Chris Beetles Gallery is one of my favorite art galleries and their exhibitions are always something truly spectacular. From October 12 through November 7, they are presenting a special presentation of Brian Duffy prints—Duffy being the Swinging Sixties photographer iconic fashion shoots and portraits of pop culture icons came to embody the energy and vitality of this explosively creative era.
Duffy (in)famously set fire to all of his original negatives back in 1979, but not all were destroyed and the Chris Beetles gallery is displaying the surviving images: the result of what they describe as “two years of painstaking archiving.” If you, like me, can’t make the trip across the pond to pay a visit, here’s a look at these dynamic prints, featuring everyone from John Lennon to California’s future Governator:
Jean Shrimpton, early 1960s
Michael Caine, 1964
John Lennon, 1965
Sammy Davis Jr. & May Britt, 1960
Sidney Poitier, 1965
"Queen" Magazine, 1965
Vogue Magazine, 1964
Vogue Magazine, 1964
Filed under: arts, design, fashion | Tags: Hollywood glam, Hollywood regency, interior design, Joan Crawford, William Haines
"I would rather have taste than love or money." - William Haines
William Haines is perhaps best known today as being the first openly gay actor in Hollywood, and his refusal to deny or hide his relationship with his lover, Jimmy Shields, killed a soaring film career in its tracks. The handsome, witty Haines was a silent film superstar, and one of MGM’s biggest attractions and a consistent top box-office draw into the early 30s. But Louis B Mayer released Haines from his contract when he refused to end his relationship with Shields. However, Hollywood’s loss was, well, Hollywood’s gain, because the indomitable Haines (who was already buddy-buddy with the likes of Orry-Kelly) became its resident designer du choix. And while his work as an actor (particularly the comic roles as in Vidor’s Show People) is enjoyable, it is his memorable career as an interior designer that made him legendary.
The immaculate taste and style of the fearless William Haines is alive and well and flourishing in the 21st century thanks to William Haines Designs. Based out of West Hollywood, with showrooms on the east coast, the company faithfully reproduces original Haines designs and celebrates his famously glammed-up interiors (now coined as “Hollywood Regency”) with inspired décor that would do Haines proud. Kelly Wearstler and Jonathan Adler are just a few of the modern designers whose distinct sense of heightened glamour is more than just slightly influenced by Haines’ work.
But there ain’t nothin’ like the real thing, and the beautiful William Haines Designs website not only displays Haines’ classic interiors, pays homage to the man with a lovely pictorial biography.
It’s little wonder than such fashionistas as Carole Lombard and Joan Crawford (his best friend whom he lovingly nicknamed “Cranberry”) regularly employed Haines’ hand: his look positively screams Grand Hotel.
By the way, Haines and Shields remained together for fifty years until Haines died in 1973. As George Cukor put it, ‘they were the happiest married couple in Hollywood.’
Below are a few examples of Haines’ Hollywood glam interiors, both original and inspired-by.
(all images copyright William Haines Designs)
Filed under: arts, classic movies, culture, entertainment, fashion, film, hollywood, movies, photography | Tags: 42nd Street, Amanda Seyfired, Anton Yelchin, Channing Tatum, Elizabeth Banks, It Happened One Night, James Marsden, John Krasinski, Josh Duhamel;, Kat Dennings, Letty Lynton, Mila Kunis, Norman Jean Roy, Paper Moon, The Grapes of Wrath, They Shoot Horses Don't They, Vanity Fair, Vanity Fair Ain't We Got Fun
I don’t know about you, but I’m a big fat sucker for Vanity Fair photo shoots.
And this one is right up my alley. Vanity Fair’s August issue features an “Ain’t We Got Style” portfolio of re-created scenes from Depression-Era films. Some of today’s freshest young talent slip into the shoes of classic film immortals Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Joan Crawford to name the few. It Happened One Night, The Grapes of Wrath, 42nd Street, Letty Lynton and My Man Godfrey are recreated alongside 1970s period dramas They Shoot Horses Don’t They and Paper Moon.
Norman Jean Roy’s work is fabulously fun, not to mention wondrously detailed– right down to the tweed in Peter Warren’s jacket. I beg you all to indulge yourselves with a gander.
(and please forgive the quality of the images—my scanner is in the throes of a midlife crisis…)
They Shoot Horses, Don't They?
Kat Dennings, Anton Yelchin, Maya Rudolph, John Krasinski, Elizabeth Banks, and Hugh Dancy
As depressing Depression films go, Sydney Pollack’s 1969 opus takes the stale biscuit. Heart attacks, broken dreams, and breakdowns on the dance floor of a 30s dance marathon participants down on their luck compete for prize money. Rather like a reality show without the chance of “Page Six” celebrity. Here, our cast gives their thespian all, in everything from D&G to Brioni.
42nd Street
Krysten Ritter, Margarita Levieva, Willa Holland, Ari Graynor, Moon Bloodgood, Jon Engstrom, Nikki Reed, Greta Gerwig, Lucas Till, Jamie Chung, Emma Stone, Rashida Jones, and Chris Messina
The whole world’s going to the dogs, so what do we need? Battalions of tap-dancing girls in ankle socks and flimsy shorts! Then (1933), as now, the chorines pound the boards (in Emporio Armani). Hopefuls wait their turn in assorted prêt-a-porter while choreographer Engstrom and director Mesina emote. Will the show go on? When will it not?
It Happened One Night
James Marsden and Rose Byrne
Runaway heiress, love triangle, gruff but adorable journalist—Frank Capra’s 1934 classic has everything a screwball on-the-road comedy should have to take the mind off foreclosures and bank closures. The most ironic scene (apart from the one where Clark Gable removed his shirt, revealing no undershirt and wiped out an entire industry) is the hitchhiking sequence. Gable invokes the language of the thumb. Claudette Colbert trumps him with the power of her gams. Here Gable (Marsden, in Ralph Lauren) and Colbert (Byrne, in Sportmax) square off.
My Man Godfrey
Channing Tatum and Amanda Seyfried
A scavenger hunt-cum-party game in this 1936 classic somehow involves Carlole Lombard’s madcap heiress wandering into the Depression-era streets, picking up hobo William Powell and turning him into an exquisitely dressed attired butler. Not, one feels, something to be attempted today. Here, as Powell, Tatum (in Armani) serves up serious tidbits as Seyfried’s Lombard (in Galliano) finds it all highly amusing.
The Grapes of Wrath
Kelli Garner, Eugene Levy, Dan Fogler, Emile Hirsch, Demitri Martin and Mamie Gummer
A sacred piece of John Ford cinema. Poignant, powerful, troubling—with hats to die for. Or is that a tad inappropriate? Whatever, the Dust Bowl style of 1940 is freight-training back toward us, and some September fashionable dames will surely embrace Stella McCartney’s granny-ish knits, Bottega Veneta’s drapey dresses, and Burberry’s drapier separates while the guys adopt newsboy caps and suspenders to make it “Two for the Joad.” Our irreverent cast (from Ang Lee’s latest, Taking Woodstock) shows how it’s done.
Letty Lynton
Mila Kunis
Before gigantic eyebrows and shoulders engulfed her, Joan Crawford played numerous birdlike shopgirls, socialites and gold-digging secretaries filed under the category Clotheshorse. A well-dressed nowhere film, Letty Lynton (1932) contained gold dust in its heroine’s dreamy wardrobe (by Adrian) and the Letty Lynton dress, with billowing diaphanous sleeves, became an overnight sensation. More than 500,000 copies sold in the depths of the Depression. Our Crawford give Givenchy’s feathery autumn offering a similar come-and-get-me allure.
Paper Moon
Josh Duhamel and Elle Fanning
Peter Bogdanovich’s breathtakingly black and white homage to 30s filmmaking introduced eight-year-old Tatum O’Neal in her first (and Oscar-winning) film performance as the illegitimate daughter of a small-time con man, played by daddy Ryan, with better looks and smaller ambitions than Bernie Madoff. Here, the road trip scene from the 1973 film is so masterfully re-interpreted by Duhamel (in Zegna) and Fanning (in Miu Miu and vintage Gap), you can still hear the little mite testily demanding, “I want my $200!”
Filed under: art, arts, classic movies, culture, design, fashion, history, hollywood, photography, vintage | Tags: cecil beaton; 30s fashion; 40s fashion; costume design;, julie andrews; sylvia sidney; gwili andre
As something of a cantankerous twitterer, I have as of today softened somewhat in my outright cynicism towards the juggernaut. Thanks to Stephen Fry’s twitter page (yes, I’m a voracious snoop), I am thrilled to learn that the Chris Beetles Gallery in London is hosting an exhibition of photographs taken by the legendary photographer, artist, writer, designer and all around pop culture icon, Cecil Beaton. This exclusive collection of Beaton’s prints is certainly the most extensive such exhibition to date. For those of us unable to attend thanks to rather formidable masses of land and ocean, there is a special 92 page illustrated catalogue of the exhibition available for purchase directly from the gallery. On a personal note, this exhibition ends the day that I land in London for a holiday and I have every intention of braving the jet lag in order to get an up-close-and-personal look at some of Beaton’s most jaw-dropping work:
Sylvia Sidney
Gwili Andre
Julie Andrews
Filed under: arts, classic movies, culture, fashion, film, film review, history, hollywood, nostalgia, vintage | Tags: Old Hollywood; Old Hollywood Glamour; Old Hollywood Glamour blog; retro fashion;
For the blogging purists out there who still believe in this medium as a platform for self expression, I give you Katy’s Old Hollywood Glamour Blog. Since I work in a business where I have to daily put up with self-impregnated celeb-loggers like Nikki Finke and Perez Hilton (gag. spoon. I refuse to even link their blogs here in the Pictorial) I was ever so relieved (I daresay, giddy) to find this genuinely mind-bendingly passionate blog dedicated to the memory of yesteryear by celebrating its glamour. The owner is a makeup artist –hence the in-depth knowledge of yesteryear’s glam trends. She can rattle on about Vamps and Bombshells with extraordinary ease–and does she ever know her Hollywood history! (Serious brownie points to us here at the Pictorial!) The sheer wealth of interviews, articles, tips, and good-old fasioned mushy musings, is enough to give even the most jaded blogger … well … that warm fuzzy feeling. 
It’s precisely the sort of blog that the Internet truly needs more of so please check it out!
Filed under: arts, cinema, classic movies, culture, entertainment, fashion, film, history, hollywood, movies
Awards analyst and all-around cineaste Scott Feinberg is in the middle of a mah-velous series of blog posts that take a look at some of the most iconic dresses in the movies. It may sound rather frivolous, and perhaps in the hands of someone else it would be, but not so with Feinberg. The man is serious about the movies and definitely knows his stuff. And so to come up with this exclusive list, Feinberg performed an extensive survey with fashion experts and professors and combed through the silent celluloid right up to today to “identify the most iconic movie dresses in cinema history.” There’s plenty of cinema history here, folks, and I urge classic movie fans everywhere to check out his 28 winners.
So far, the list includes Cate Blanchett’s red dress from The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, Ginger Rogers feather dress from Top Hat and Jean Harlow’s white hot satin number from Dinner at Eight.
Filed under: fashion, vintage | Tags: Fall fashion; autumn 2008; fashion ;trends;
Forget about bringing sexy back. The incredulous fact of the matter is … Winter 2008 is bringing glam back. Waistcoats and Fedoras for men. Pencil skirts and tailored suits. Plaids and prints. Skinny ties. Jackie O shades. Bow ties. Fur–FUR–for God’s sake. (faux, of course.) It is now officially OK to look classy … for the season, anyway. Conservative coverage and maxi skirts are, of all things, in. All I have to say is: IT’S ABOUT TIME.
Ladies: Want to look your classiest for this Winter? Follow these steps. (merci beaucoup to Associated Content.)
1. Dresses with shape: Putting the emphasis back on the waist, many dresses are now being seen with belts, or in the form of a pencil skirt. Fitted dresses are replacing the flowy styles found in summer, but fall fashion is still remaining fresh.
2. Jewel Tones: These colors are back for another season. Look for jewel toned sweaters, blazers or even an accessory in a deep color. Paired with black or grey, jewel tones offer that popping contrast of color.
3. Tailored Suits: Perfect of the office, wide legged trousers or tailored suits are making an appearance this fall. Paired with a stiletto or boot, women’s suits can go from business to classy for any look.
4. The maxi dress: The floor-length dress seen on pretty much every celebrity will be around until next spring, making it a smart fashion trend purchase for 2008/09. Comfortable and flowy, the Maxi dress looks good on just about everyone.
5. Bows and Trim: Look for classical romantic pieces next time you go shopping. The trim of many blouses have rouching, ruffles and bows that look girly but not over the top.
6. Russian: Soviet style hats and coats are set to make an appearance in the Fall Fashion Trends of 2008. Another great style to buy, the Russian influence is set to be a trend for men’s fashion as well and lasting through Winter 2008/09.
7. Texture: Velvet and faux fur is seen in many designs found on the runway for fall. Velvet knee-length dresses and bubble skirts are a romantic look, especially when in a jewel tone.
Fellas? Serious about your vestements? Take heed to the following admonitions from Suite101:
Brad Pitt--model of genteel modernity.
Outwear and Colour: A brown leather jacket would be a premium recommendation in that brown brings a distinct note of style into your overall look and seperates you from the legions of men who simply always opt for the severe looking, and much more common, black jacket. A chocolate brown leather simply ages more gracefully than its darker cousin, and adds a vintage flair. Brown also co-ordinates much better with most jeans, sweaters, and shirts that will be presented to you in the cooler seasons.
Traditionally, an eye for colour will benefit any gentleman concerned with style. In Fall 2009, look for browns, blues, and especially shades of orange – orange having made a surprise comeback in recent years that shows no sign of stopping in the near future. When matching colours, remember that most blues, especially lighter to medium hues such as baby blue or french blue, pair extremely well with brown tones – strange but true! A french blue dress or sport shirt is not only a staple piece of any wardrobe of merit, but will serve you in wonderful stead in a variety of social occasions ranging from a casual date at the local watering hole, a stroll in the park (when coupled with jeans and the aforementioned leather coat), or a high-pressure job interview.
Accessories & Fresh Fall Scents: As for accessories, one piece of clothing that immediately springs to mind would be a scarf, worn rather rakishly in the earlier months of fall or perhaps more pragmatically during the bitter cold of a northern winter! Scarves can add a level of distinction and personality to a wardrobe that is often afforded to the wearer via a necktie – it is a centerpiece of the outerwear collection and is something that immediately catches the eye of the passerby.
A wool or cotton scarf is recommended, as silk tends to look rather foppish or effete when worn by most men – and as for colour, the primary suggestion is to either find a tone in the scarf that would tie in nicely with your most commonly worn coat, or simply a scarf that catches your eye and that you rather like. Remember, when it comes to accessories such as scarves and neckties, they are showcases for your sense of style and personality – choose accordingly!
Finally, a trip to the store to find a new cologne would be prudent unless one is allergic or commonly present around others who are. A signature cologne (or two, or four) leaves an impression, a mental imprint on the minds of those you associate with casually, romantically, and professionally. Properly paired and applied, cologne exhibits to people that you care about your personal grooming and make an effort when it comes to presenting yourself.
For a spicy yet masculine scent, one might seek out Kenneth Cole’s offering, R.S.V.P. – endorsed by Jon Bon Jovi. Another favourite from Kenneth Cole is the fresh and energetic Reaction. Perry Ellis’ 360o is a perennial favourite, as well as Calvin Klein’s CKin2U, a rather recent new offering from one of the largest names in men’s fashion.
Hopefully we’ve set the ball in motion for the coming season. Now it’s up to you to go out in style!
Need inspiration? I’ve two web sites that will surely aid you in your quest of quality class:
Red Dress Shoppe for the ladies (http://www.reddressshoppe.com/), and Urban Gentleman for the fellas. (http://theurbangent.blogspot.com/)
Happy High Hat-ing to all!
